National Museum of Contemporary Art Athens

The Museum of Contemporary Art has long been operating in temporary premises and after a long time on the move, the new premises in an old brewery are an excellent improvement. The building has plenty of space and room to manoeuvre. In places, the space could probably have been used more efficiently. There's a lot of space to be kept cool in the 40-degree heat of Athenian summer..

The museum as seen from the metro station, 22 March 2022. Photo OI


I took a metro to the museum. There was an entrance from the metro station side, but the door was locked.On the other side of the building, however, there was an open entrance.

The museum's exhibition spaces are spread over several floors, with a cafĂ© on the ground floor and a restaurant and rooftop terrace on the top floor. However, the restaurant was closed in March. The permanent collections are on the top three floors. The robust-looking escalators are the easiest way to move between the floors. Evidently the escalators are deliberately designed to look so sturdy. However, they are not a particularly graceful solution. The interiors are entirely modern, in the classic “art museum white”. In fact, there is nothing to suggest the building's previous use.

 

Reading the section texts, one gets the impression that the museum is still searching for its identity. In the text introducing the permanent collections, credits for the curators take up a large portion of space. In any case, as the text says, the permanent collection is the heart of the museum, and the works on display are impressive. The first works in the EMST collection were acquired in 2000 and the first work was presented on 11 October 2000. There are 172 works shown by 78 Greek and international artists.

Mona Hatoum: Fix It, 2004. Factory equipment and furniture, programmable lighting, electric cable, light bulbs, sound. According to the object label, Mona Hatoum visited Athens and collected old and rusty industrial furniture from the old FIX brewery before its restoration as a permanent base for EMST. She erected a metal net to form a fenced area where electric lamps are switched on and off, creating a buzzing sound. Photo OI


Kendell Geers: Acropolis Redux (The Director's Cut), 2004. Security fences, steel shelves. According to the object label, South African artist Kendell Geers has used dangerous materials to create a latter-day Parthenon, alluding to apartheid and all forms of division. Does the fencing he creates make you feel stronger and safer, or does it threaten you? Photo OI



Vlassis Caniaris: Hopscotch, 1974. 6 human figures, 9 suitcases, 1 cage, tar paper base, chalk drawing. The work is about Greek emigration. After the Second World War, and especially in the 1960s and 1970s, a large number of Greeks migrated abroad. The work has even been shown at Documenta in Kassel, and its message has not faded. When I visited the EMST Museum in late March 2022, it was four weeks after the start of the war in Ukraine. More than 10 million Ukrainians had been internally or externally displaced, no doubt that figure including some of Ukraine's Greek minority. Photo OI


Many contemporary art museums now focus their exhibitions on environmental change. In this museum, much of the work deals with borders and their crossing, refugees, politics and oppression. Topical and important themes too.

The jewel in the collection is undoubtedly Ilya Kabakov's installation The Boat of My Life from 1993.


Ilya Kabakov. The Boat of My Life, 1993. Acquired for the collection in 2001. In the object label, Kabakov says of his work: “I did this when I was sixty years old. The installation is a large and long (17 metres) wooden boat with stairs at each end, with which the viewer climbs up to the deck and descends from there. On the deck are twenty-five large cardboard boxes in total disarray, as if they had been put there temporarily. Each one is filled with all kinds of household rubbish, the kind a person in a hurry to leave throws things together unsorted: jackets, shirts, shoes, children's toys. Each box has a piece of cardboard on top of everything, with photos, small objects and texts glued to it. The texts are scattered memories of episodes in my life  As the viewer wanders between the boxes, gradually moving to the opposite end of the boat, the viewer realises that here are all the belongings of a person's life, and that the movement inside the boat between the boxes and towards the exit is movement along the course of a person's life. Each box represents its own period of that life, with its own name.The last box is empty. A strong association is made with the journey through the boat - Charon's boat, which transported human souls across the River Styx. At least this is the image I had in front of me when I thought of this piece”. Photos OI






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